(Also known as English Roundhand)
By Clifford D. Mansley, Sr.
Of Heirloom Artists Calligraphers
Teacher’s Brief Calligraphic Biography
About the Instructor: Cliff
Mansley began his adventures in Calligraphy shortly after being discharged from
the United States Navy following the Second World War. Between discharge and entering the
Introduction
Welcome to the world of
Copperplate Script. It is one of the
most valuable skills a calligrapher can possess in serving their clients needs
or, in simply enjoying the pleasure of fine writing.
Before beginning let’s clear
up the mystery of the term “copperplate script”. It began, quite simply, as embellished
handwriting. Penmen, several hundred
years ago (300-400 years) began writing in a very formal way. They lear
Now to Copperplate Script or
English Roundhand, as you will.
First, let’s talk about the
tools you will need. Some of them are
different then most calligraphers have experienced.
Tools and Supplies
1. The
Oblique Penholder. This penholder,
pictured below is desig
have
an offset metal or plastic holder for the pen nib. Its design
enables
the calligrapher to letter with fine upstrokes and down strokes
without straining their hand or manipulating
the pen. In addition the
calligrapher can see their letters clearly
without their hand or pen
obscuring their writing. The penholder can be
purchased from any
fully supplied art store or mail order art
suppliers.

2. Pen nibs. Unlike most
calligraphic styles, copperplate script requires
a flexible pointed nib. There are a number
of nibs that work well.
Perhaps the most common and the best of the
currently manufactured nibs
are the Gillott’s 303 for smaller lettering
and the new Leonhardt’s
Principal for larger lettering. A very
sturdy nib for Copperplate but
one that does not give as good a hairline is
the Hunt 101. This is good
for practice because it holds up under a new
students pressure. While
there are other nibs that you will find
satisfactory or even prefer
eventually it is suggested that you stay
with these three nibs at the
outset
All pen nibs have a fine coating of oil to keep them from
rusting
Some calligraphers like to soak them in Gum Arabic or moisten
them in their mouth to remove the oil. We suggest that you burn the
oil off by holding the nib in a pliers and
waving it slowly over the
flame for just a short while. Too short and the oil remains. Too long
and you take the temper out of the metal.
3. Inks. A good Sumi Ink will
serve you well at the outset. Our favorite
for routine work comes in a green bottle and
has the letter KF12 12 oz
on the label. As you become more experienced you will find
inks such as
Walnut Ink, Dr. Martin’s Bleedproof white
and Pearlescent to be fun
to experiment with. Windsor Newton’s Gouache provides fine
hairlines,
good opacity and an endless variety of
colors.
4. Paper. For the new student we suggest that you get the best ruled
tablet
you can find for practice, It saves endless
ruling of paper or the
need for a light table. Home Depots “Docket Gold” works reasonably
well.
Or, we suggest that you purchase a ream of one of our favorites,
Kodak Bright White 26# inkjet paper. You then rule your own guidelines
on a piece of paper, make a copy, on your
copier, on clear copy film and
place it on your light table. Put the Bright white paper over the li
film and practice away. There are many fine papers you will find
satisfactory for finished work. Personally,
we prefer Arches 90# hot
press. It has a good finish, with enough
“tooth” to give a good feel
between the pen and paper and is very
forgiving. If you make a mistake
you correct it with a process explai
5. Other supplies:
A. Blotter: We suggest you put a blotter (purchased from
an art store)
under your hand to keep the oil from you
hand getting on the paper.
B. Sponge: It is important to keep your pen nib as clean
as possible
while you are lettering. One
simple way to do this is by wiping the
pen nib on a sponge. The best sponges for
this purpose are a natural
sponge placed in a small jar, similar to
a baby food jar, and kept
moist
Every so often you wipe the pen on the sponge.
C. Wipers: In addition to a sponge you will want to wipe
off the pen
nib occasionally with a rag or towel. The
blue rolls of shop towels
found at Home Depot, Costco and other
places are ideal wipers. They
are
super absorbent and tough.
D. Magnifiers: For those students who are over 40 years of
age, when
the eyes stop focusing, you may need magnifiers
for the smaller
lettering
Jewelers magnifiers, which fit over your glasses, are
ideal
They can be purchased at Jewelry Supply Houses or through
mail order art suppliers.
These are the basic tools and supplies which
can be augmented as you
develop your skills.
LESSON 1
Now that you have the
necessary supplies, we can get down to actually learning the fine art of
Copperplate Script. The first thing you need to do is be sure you are
comfortably seated at your drawing board or table. Your feet should be firmly on the floor, back
reasonably straight and bent slightly forward and your arm should be on the
drawing board with the elbow just off the edge of the board. This allows you to rest on the muscle of your
forearm. By doing this the muscle provides
some flexibility of motion as you form and execute your letters.
Although you can execute
Copperplate Script on a flat table or drawing board, it is best to have the
board at a slight slope. Too much slope
and the pointed pen will dig into the paper.
Too little slope and you will need to bend over your work in an uncomfortable
way.
Over the years Copperplate
Script artists have developed a slant to their lettering that seems most
pleasing to the eye. This slant is
approximately 55 degrees. You will not want to vary the slant too much making
the lettering too vertical or too slanted
As a learner it is helpful to draw guidelines at 55 degrees so that it
becomes firmly rooted in you eye hand coordination. Hold your paper on the
drawing board so that the left bottom point of your paper aims directly toward
the middle of your body and the top right point of your paper is directly above
that lower point. This almost guarantees that as your draw the pen nib toward
your body, the letter will be executed at 55 degrees or very close to that.
PENCIL PRACTICE
To familiarize you with the
Copperplate lettering styles it is suggested that you first trace the letters
with a soft pencil. You can even
simulate the style by bearing lightly on the pencil on the upstrokes and
bearing heavily on the pencil on the down strokes. If you have a light table
you can trace the following alphabet (Figure 1.1) to regular
copy paper. If you don’t have a light
table, you can use tracing paper. Hold your practice paper, as suggested above,
so that you become familiar with the appropriate slant right from the very
beginning. Please submit your best
tracing as part of this lesson.

PEN STROKES
Copperplate Script is made up
of a number of common pen strokes. Once you have mastered these pen strokes, it
becomes easier to put them together to form letters and words. Our first several lessons will concentrate on
the strokes used in lower case (miniscule) letters. These lessons may seem tedious and even
boring but by learning the strokes well, you will accomplish much later
on.
To begin with you must learn
how to flex and spread your pen nib with the proper pressure Let’s start with
large, lower case letters of 5/16 inch in height (similar to the spaces on the
Docket Gold tablet). Dip your pen nib so that the ink covers the “eye” of the
nib. This is necessary to catch the ink
on the nib and avoid the ink blobbing on the paper. Take the nib, place it on the waist line and
gently, but firmly, spread the left point of the nib to the left keeping the
right side of the nib in its original position.
Now draw the spread nib toward the baseline (and toward the center of
your body) and let the right point of the nib rejoin the left part of the nib
to square off the stroke. (Figure 1.2).
In order to master this technique you will need to do at least one full
page of this stroke and perhaps even more.

The next stroke, in this
first lesson, is to take the first practice stroke, and instead of squaring off
the bottom, create a slight curve at the bottom. This is accomplished by allowing the left point
of the pen nib to come toward the right side of the pen nib before it reaches
the base line (Figure 1.3). In order to
master this technique you will also need to do at least a full page of these
strokes. As you draw the stroke be sure
you are pulling the nib toward the center of your body. Remember to keep the nib filled with ink
above the eye of the nib in order to avoid flooding onto the page.
The third stroke in this
first lesson is to start at the waist line and instead of spreading the left side
of the nib to the left giving a square top you will slowly, gently, gradually,
spread the right side of the nib to the right thus forming a curved top. Now complete the stroke to the baseline
allowing the right side of the nib to rejoin the left side squaring off the
bottom (Figure 1.4). Here again, you will want to do at least a
full page of these strokes to gain confidence in forming the strokes.
SPREADING THE NIB ACHIEVES THE CURVED
APPEARANCE
It is important to note that
true copperplate script achieves its curved appearance by the pressure and
release of the nib and not by creating rounded letters. By gradually or quickly, as the case may be,
increasing or releasing the pressure on the nib you create the appearance of a
round form without weakening the structure of the letter. This point is critical to creating uniform
lower case letters that ultimately provide the contrast for the more voluptuous
upper case (capitals or majuscules). I
have often like
CRITIQUE
For comments on this first
lesson, return the following:
1. Pencil copy of traced
letters.
2. Examples of strokes with
squared off top and bottom.
3. Examples of strokes with
bottom rounded to the right.
4. Examples of strokes with
top rounded to the right.
You may mail, fax or scan and
email your lessons, whichever is most convenient.